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How to Strip and Wax A Floor

How to Strip and Wax A Floor


This video will demonstrate how to strip
and wax your floor. Your first step is to gather all your
equipment You can download the list titled for
stripping and waxing materialist and all these procedures at greatwesternsupply.com First move all the furniture and
obstructions. Run a dust mop over the floor to remove the loose debris. Tape off any doorways or carpeted areas. Put out wet floor signs Now put on your gloves and googles, and put water in the stripper bucket, and add the stripper. Take some base board stripper and spray it
onto the baseboards. This gets the built up wax and dirt
off the baseboard. Give it a few minutes to dwell. Use a swivel utility pad to remove the built-up wax and dirt on the baseboard. Use a rinse mop
to remove the remaining build-up and you’re done with the baseboards. Now
let’s add the floor stripper to the floor. Simply pull the saturated mop out of the bucket and flood the floor. After 10 to 15 minutes of dwell time go
ahead and remove the build-up wax along the baseboards by using a swivel
utility pad sometimes we call the doodlebug. You should use the swivel utility pad
around the areas you don’t want the machine to get stripper all over. You could also use a long-handled razor blade to remove wax buildup rather than the doodlebug. Now it’s time to set up the floor machine We’re going to use floor pads so take
the pad driver and put it on the floor machine. Then use the floor pad on that. You can use a black thick traditional stripping pad, a 3m high productivity pad. Today we’re going to be using the Prolink maroon dominator stripping pad. Double
scrub the floor with the floor machine being sure to keep the machine in front
of you because the floor gets very slick. If you’re not careful you’re going down. Now that you scrubbed up the floor finish it’s time to pull it up with the wet vac You can use an automatic scrubber, or just a regular mop for small areas.
For this floor were using a wet vacuum. Make sure the floor is dry and then add
the floor finish to the bucket. Take a can liner and put it inside the bucket. This keeps the floor finish from getting contaminated, and it also makes clean up a lot easier. Ok the floor finish is in the bucket. Now we can lay the finish by either
using a flat mop system or a mono filament mop. The traditional blue-and-white candy striped floor finish mop I personally like the old-school method the screw in top rayon mop. I like these because they rotate. We saturate the mop full of wax
and put in the wringer. Don’t wring it, just
give it a little tap. Now pull it out and you’re ready to go. We start off by doing an outline of the
area you intend to finish. Finish your outline and reload your mop with wax and then you fill in the center with the
figure eight motion. After about 30 minutes, depending on the humidity you’re ready for the next coat. To help dry time you could have a fan in
the room to move the air but do not point it on the floor. It’s
best to wait around 10 minutes after the finish has been down to start the
fan. We suggest putting no more than four sometimes five coats a finished down per day

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84 thoughts on “How to Strip and Wax A Floor

  1. To make the stripper work better make sure you use hot water if there's a lot of wax on the floor

  2. As Special Projects worker for a company that does this and more, I'd say a neutralizing agent is best. Where I work we use Dibbs powder tabs. it can be used to neutralize stripper yes but its also good for extracting salt from entry rugs and for protecting the wax from salt and chemical spills during regular care. (nice Side-by-Side by the way)

  3. Nice video for safety use stripping shoe covers, go to any janitorial store. Another tip don't let stripper dry and go heavy, also look at your work as you run buffer, if there is a yellow look on floor after you stripped floor, well this means there is still wax on floor, the yellow look is why you are stripping wax, the wax is dirty.

  4. I like to put a heater in the water and stripper to get it nice and hot. It works much better. Also, if there is a lot of built up wax on the edges, the Doodle Pad isn't going to work. You need to get down on your knees with a tool and dig in. I also flood rinse the floor with water after stripping, and then I wet mop it with neutral floor cleaner before I seal and wax it.

  5. @guanaco3208 I would rinse the mop real good and wash it by itself with no detergent. If your going to use the mop again soon, put it in a sealed trash bag. It will keep it wet for a long time. And when in doubt, get a new mop head–they are not too expensive.

  6. @karina032588 If you do not put a few coats of sealer down, the tile will suck up the wax, and you will end up putting many coats of wax down. With the sealer, the wax is laid on top of it, and you only need approximately 4 coats. Also, the amount of wax finish depends on traffic too. When you do the edges of a floor (6 inches from the base board) only use 1 coat of sealer and 1 coat of wax. There is generally no traffic there, and when you go to restrip it, it comes off very easy.

  7. I have a problem with yellowing when I'm only stripping/waxing one section of the floor. Is there a way to avoid this?

  8. Sheep skit heads are easier to deal with, you can apply the wax right from the bottle on to the floor, instead of putting in a mop bucket. It goes on easier and there is no cleanup and also no need to put the remaining wax back into the bottle. Good video though, thankyou

  9. My method is – lay folded towels at the end of a hallway/doorway with one layer of tape folded up against the towels (barrier) across the floor. I use Johnson/Diversity Stripper. I usually flood the hell out of the floor with the stripper and keep mopping it around until you know it's not slippery anymore. I then use hot water in the tank of my roto and flood the floor as well whiile stripping. I then do the baseboards and edges, suck up the water. rinse, rinse again, 5 coats, no fan.drys better

  10. Great video! We are slowly getting out of the janitorial servicing and doing more supplies sales and cleaning chemical sales.

  11. I clean floors and just to let everyone know this guy makes it way harder than it is with all these extra steps

  12. The tree hugger below probly washrd his hair today with a chemical,brushed his teeth with a chemical,washed his clothes with a chemical,added chemicals to his car fluids to keep it running correctly,and he is using a computer to write a dumb comment wich is wasting energy resources.etc etc….and now he bitches about a strip and wax?

  13. i did the floor with base stripper and my head still hurts..plus my floor dont accept the wax i already buffed ..now whath should i do?

  14. Sealer sucks! It is very durable but when it needs to be stripped it is next to impossible if not done correctly. When I come across sealer, I bid accordingly, stock up on pole scrapper blades and get ready for a long night. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE SEALER WITH THE POLE SCRAPPERS FIRST then run your side-by-side with a highly aggressive pad. Clean up with wet vac. Now you are at the point where you may strip the floor the second time around with normal procedures. Have lots of help.

  15. This will really help me at work I like how you put a bag for the wax so simple but I never thought of it. Im going to mention that to my boss

  16. Where do I find a 'long handle razor blade' I have searched lowes, and other places and cannot find one… You mention it in the video.

  17. I mop the freshly stripped floors twice after sucking up the stripper,let dry,and then continue on to wax…..very good video…

  18. I'll never have to strip like this again. I have converted over to a new product, search youtube for "VCT 3 step coating process video".

  19. I used a clarke walk-behind scrubber at a school & didn't have any problems with it. In the video, they did not make any mention of neutralizer during the first mopping after the scrubbing after the stripper was picked up, or the use of any sealer which would help decrease the amount of times it was waxed, nor did they mentiion anything about the wax being strained through a filter.

  20. hey mate. you forgot to use neutral cleaner to cut the  reaction of stripper  -after stripping the floor & before applying wax/polish on the floor

  21. hey i have a question for anyone who can help,,,I am doing vct floors now and i am having issues with the pad on the machine gumming up with wax,,I am using bravo stripper mixed 1 gal to 4 gallons water,,let sit 8 to ten min…then start to scrub with the machine,,pad gets loaded up after a few min of scrubbing,,,far from done on the section at that point i am working on,,,about a 10'x10' section

  22. After scrubbing the floor, and using a shop vac to get up the stripping/water, do you mop the floor with clean water or just go right to waxing?

  23. did ANYONE ever hear of using iced water to put on a finished floor jus after applying floor finish with of course air dry time…was told this hardens the floor finish better than air drying.

  24. When you outline (frame out) the first area, do you let it dry before framing out the next area?  Or, do you go on to the next section right away?  If you let it dry, doesn't it result in an area of overlap?  If you don't let it dry, how do you get the two areas to blend without the first area starting to get tacky?

  25. Every body does this skilled trade differently it's all about knowing the tricks to this trade. You have to know the ins and outs, outs and ins, of this skilled trade. Prep work is key, remember how much prep work is one willing to do???

  26. Is there a small (hand held size) machine to strip wax between church pews? The area is so tight between the pews it is near impossible to strip. Using a doodle bug on a pole is not getting the wax build up up properly and stripping between pews by hand is too labor intense…its a LARGE church with over 100 pews.

  27. I just started a cleaning business and am thinking of offering this service but i dont know how much to charge per sq ft,
    what is the recommended charge?
    and what is the recommended cleaning schedule for retail?
    I know it might depend on how much traffic the place might get.

  28. I noticed that you didn't use a neutralizer after shopvac, and just went straight to the water rinse. I'm new to floor cleaning and thought that was a necessity. Would you speak to that question?

  29. It's pretty stupid that it's 2016 and you still need a shit load of equipment, to do a floor. what a pain in the ass.

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  31. Man i seen some bad falls in that stripper..
    I seen guys lose there ability to work. Young guys too.

    This stuff is to be taken seriously .

  32. You only need to out line along the baseboard, then apply the finish in a figure 8 your finish could set up on you and start streaking

  33. I just got me a job for a high school as a custodian we are starting stripping and waxing floors i did it before but i needed a recourse on how its done i have not done it in a couple years

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  35. Thanks that’s the method I know I did in my teen yrs work at cleaning company been so yrs but watching this brought it back.

  36. After waxing I use a bubbler to give it a nice glossy shine so you recommend that or if so you the buffer with caution cause it can scuff the coating

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  38. 3:25. You forgot to put on your blue shoe covers. You never know, but I give a 60 – 70 percent chance that you'll step in the fresh wax if not careful.

  39. Not only put wet floor signs at the start, but be sure to barricade the wide open space and caution tape it around. People will walk into it if not done properly.

  40. I cringed when I saw all the wax buildup on the baseboards. This is easily prevented with a good waxing technique.

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